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Yeah, I’ve been switching it up. Expanding my
horizons. When was the last time I did a chained cast-on? Who knows? Who cares?
Working from the green book, I’ve chosen No 15, Hand Transferred Lace Edge
with chained cast-on. You know I don’t read all my own instructions, who has
time for that when they think they know what they are doing? I measure out
three times the width of the needles and start chaining loosely – that’s 145
needles. Get halfway across and realize I’m going to run out of yarn. Calmly
unravel it. Measure out four times, chain again and run out on the 10th needle
from the right side. Heavy sigh. What the hay, I’ll see if I can fudge this.
Draw down a new loop, finish the chain, loop the too-short tail over the next
needle and knit the row. Looks like it could work. By the way, using Yeoman’s CannelĂ©,
a beautiful mercerised cabled cotton – no splitting stitches here – in a pretty
spring yellow, colour name is ‘poussin’ – how’s that for funny!
I‘ve been meaning to tell you about my latest Netflix
binge – it’s called Wanted, a series from Australia - Spoiler alert! I
was thinking it was a Thelma/Louise thing, but there are three seasons and they
might do another. I’m loving it – the second season takes place around
Queenstown, New Zealand – I spent almost a week there in 2017 http://travelwithmysis.blogspot.com/2017/03/queenstown.html
at the end of our hike and it is so spectacular. Watching
the show, I kept saying, oh, I was there! During the Australia parts, I kept saying, I never got there! Anyway, Chelsea, one of the lead
characters, her secret name is Brigitte Poussin! With a French accent! Is that
synchronicity? or whatever you call it. Sorry, I digress.
Back to the knitting, this cone of Cannelé is really
old, it’s from back when the put-up was 250g on the large cone. They changed it
to a 245g cone and put it on a short, squat cone sometime in the last decade, I
think. It’s virtually mandatory to have 3 full cones of one dye lot for a
garment with sleeves. I only have one full cone of this colour, probably why I
still have it - it actually still had the blister wrap packaging on it, and I
wouldn’t really be attempting a top for me – the anxiety of running out would
do me in! This one is for Lisi, another cute, petite, wee thing so am doing
finished 34 bust, fingers crossed. After the hem is done, I think, hum mm, not
really sure I can hide that but if it’s in the back maybe she’ll never
notice…and if I make the back first, I can check that I will have enough yarn
to finish before putting all the work into the front and wasting it because I
didn’t have enough to finish…
Outside
patch pocket? can be quick and easy or you could put some effort into it.
Here’s my effort version. This one
can be a bit bigger than the inside patch pocket
from ‘Pocket Change’ http://knitwords.blogspot.ca/2018/03/do-i-take-chance.html
Here, we
only have to worry about the top of the pocket bagging out so I’m going with 14
cm X 15 cm (5.5 in X 6 in) and because it’s just sewn on top of the garment
front, things are a lot more forgiving.
A long
while back, I told you about a breakthrough I had with a chained edging on a
patch pocket http://knitwords.blogspot.ca/2011/03/fourth-times-charm.html
and I tried it again with fairisle http://knitwords.blogspot.ca/2013/08/perfect-pockets.html
- now I’m attempting to take it a step further. Note about waste yarn – don’t
use crap – make sure it’s a good firm yarn that’s at least the same thickness
as your main yarn or you’ll be digging for those stitches forever! I used
Bonita 4 ply cabled cotton that is slightly heavier than the 4 ply wool I’m
using for the main yarn and knit the waste yarn tighter – go with T6 – it will
make the main yarn stitches pop up better.
That
chain is going to go around the entire patch if I’ve figured this right. Based
on my gauge, for the chain, I will need 38 sts for the width and (60 rows divided
by 2) 30 sts for each side. To be able to keep track of this, I place the actual pocket on #19-0-19 ns. Add 30 to the left and 30 to the
right for each of the sides #49-0-49 ns. Measure out 6X width of ns in work and double that so you have main yarn double stranded, chain across,
going fairly loosely for part that is sides of pocket – you need to build in
some room for the drop and then do it a little more snugly for the width parts. Main yarn single
strand, main tension +2, knit 1 row. Break yarn. Remove 30 sts at left on WY.
Remove another 30
sts at right on waste, leaving 19-0-19 sts in work for pocket. RC000. CAR. Main
yarn, main tension, K1R. At right, pick up stitch from chain closest and hang
on #20, Pick up #19, move to #20 and take both back to #19. Make sure #20 is
out of work. K1R. This puts chain stitch on knit side of pocket edge. Repeat on
left, hanging new chain st on side opposite carriage, continuing up to RC060.
Each side should be finished now and CAR. Using tail at right and the main yarn from carriage, hand knit a loose row with double strand and
chain off.