Sometimes being the boss is not always the best thing...but, now, working for someone else, it’s harder when they get to say and make the rules - like, now I have to remember someone else’s abbreviations and preferred spellings, never mind the American spelling!!! Yeah, I’m working on my next article for Knit’nStyle and you know, before, I didn’t have to worry about the min/max thing - I could keep talking/writing until I decided I’d said everything I wanted to say. Now, I have to stay in their guidelines and not go on and on....I had gotten into the habit of doing articles that were 1500 to 2500 words (tell me that’s not too much!) and now I have to keep it preferably under 1000 words (not a lot, really, like barely a page) with, maybe 2 to 4 swatches or photos - apparently the powers that be say that you are not interested in anything over 800 words - they say you lose interest and won’t read any more than that anyway...they also don’t want two-part articles (the reason being that people complain that it makes them buy another issue to get the rest of the story, but I always thought that was a good thing), so I have to pick smaller topics - I am working on a new series of techniques articles, aimed at beginners - the idea is to give 3 or 4 ways of doing something (What?), and then tell you When? and Where? to use Which one , Why? and maybe, Why not? - that I’m calling W-5 -- the first one was on cast-on methods for the LK150 and will be in the next issue, #178, out in late January, I think - this is my second article but I don’t know if they even kept my title or changed it - I was going to do increases and decreases, but quickly realized that I could only address one or the other half decently, so this one is on decreases - my garment for this issue is a raglan, and as they kinda go together... and the increases will have to wait for next time...
Oh, hey, did you notice there was a survey in the last KnS (Feb’12 Issue 177)?? Did anyone fill it out and send it in? You get entered in a draw for a $200 shopping spree and you won’t even have to answer a skill-testing question! You still have until January 31, 2012 to enter - I hope they let me know what the answers are!
Wednesday, December 28, 2011
Friday, December 23, 2011
back story
I got this cute card from my friend Vickie and I had to share it with you - I laughed and laughed! She is a long time machine knitter who recently decided to learn to hand knit and she’s told me her tales of woe - $80 for the sock class - I think that included the yarn and maybe the needles but don’t quote me on that. I believe it was a 4 week class - she did eventually get the socks knit but also got the ‘need to learn to hand knit’ bug out of her system. She then turned to making socks on the machine from the free patterns I’ve given (LK150, see blog in September and double bed sock pattern at www.knitwords.com under freebies) and she proudly reports that the LK150 socks are the best slippers she’s ever had!! and she has several pairs under her belt! Happy Holidays!
Thursday, December 22, 2011
more slip cord experiments....
I did some more experimenting and used some of the other Slip Cord edges from 'Knitting on the EDGE' by MAO - then I wanted to make something that I could use the original knot loop edge - it should be added to a selvedge instead of open stitches so I made a triangle and added it - the first one didn’t work very well (Berroco Boboli - leftover from KnS#177 project) because my cast-on wasn’t loose enough and it restricted the drop of the triangle and the triangle was a little small- but my second one (see below) came out perfect!!! Looks good from both sides and much easier than the pompoms I’ve seen - have fun, I did!!
Triangular Shawl/Scarf
MACHINE: LK150 mid gauge
YARN: fine alpaca (lace weight, used double stranded). 75-0-75 n’s. Cast on WY and ravel cord. This will be the outside edges of the Vee of the triangle and it needs to be very stretchy or it will shorten up the selvedges. To get a really stretchy cast-on for the main yarn use double e-wrap: Bring n’s out, CAR. Starting at left, loop last needle and take yarn under and around second needle and back into hook of first. Manually knit the stitch back, making extra large stitch. Take yarn under and around third needle, back into hook of second stitch and knit it back large. Continue across to right. Put yarn into feeder. Carefully bring n’s out to make sure everything knits. T7, K2R. ( I knit this very loosely because I wanted it thin and drapey and I knew it would 'full' somewhat when washed and alarger stitch would allow for that). Carriage at right. Set to hold. RC000. Place left side except #1 left to HP. K1R. Place right side except #1 right to HP - 2 n’s in work. Knit to right. *at side opposite carriage, return 1 needle to UWP, K1R*. Without wrapping, repeat from * to * to all n’s in work, RC152, end CAL. Cast off very loosely.
Knot and Loop Edging ( #11 from Knitting on the EDGE by MAO!)
Slip Cord: Set carriage to slip to the left and knit right - LK150, left side lever forward.
1. Cast on 3 sts with WY. Knit several rows.
2. MC, T4, K1R. Set for slip cord. K24R. CAL.
3. Pick up first row in MC and hang on same needles to make loop. Put back stitches behind latches and front set in hooks. Push back on needle butts to knit through.
4. Working from right to left, with knit side facing, pick up selvedge edge (because of the double e-wrap, this is not exact, but just push the 3 prong tool in the edge to pick up whatever, just be consistent), onto another 3 needles to right.
5. Pick up cord sts, place over edge sts and pull through so open sts of cord are in hooks. CAL, bring needles forward to ensure next row knits. Always put empty needles out of work.
6. K30R (loop).
7. Turn shawl to knit side. Poke tool into the selvedge and hang on 3 new n’s to right of cord, leaving about half an inch from last edge pick-up. Put cord sts onto edge needles and knit through. Bring needles out.
8. K24R (knot).
9. Turn shawl to purl side. Pick up cord with transfer tool.
10 . Pull the last loop made (that is already attached - the 30 rows knit in #6), open, bring forward and to the right so you are looking at the purl sts of where you joined it to the edge in #7. Pick up the same edge sts (or as close as you can) that you joined loop with - the joined loop will be under the tool as you are picking up this part - this makes the knot.
Repeat #6 to #10. Always stop with CAL and bring needles out after knitting through so that you get a row of knit stitches after the join.
You will keep moving along needle bed. Every so often, as in #9, move back toward centre of needle bed. Try this out on a solid colour first to get the hang of it and after you know what you’re doing, you’ll be able to eliminate hanging the edge on new needles. Pick up the cord, put a finger over to hold the sts on the tool and go into the edge so the edge is hung first and the sts of cord can be pulled through selvedge...
Monday, December 19, 2011
garter bar practise
Knotted Loops Adult Scarf for Mid Gauge by Mary Anne Oger
DK yarn, scarf looks same on both sides and doesn’t curl - not so quick and easy, but fun! Knotted Loop Trim from Mid Gauge Magic by MAO!
Finished size: 6 inch wide; length, approx 44 inches.
Yarn: Misti Alpaca Tonas Silk, DK weight (83% Peruvian Cotton, 17% silk) 100g/337 yds skein
Machine: Mid gauge 6.5mm, LK150 used.
Knotted Loops Edge, 8 stitch repeat.
Make cord: WY, cast on 5 sts. K10R. CAL, break WY. Put CAR, MC, T3. *Set to slip (left side lever forward to circle, so that carriage slips to left and knits to right). Bring needles out past the latches so first row will knit. K42R. Take out MC without breaking and anchor at right side. Put CAL. Cancel slip. WY, K8R. Break WY. Put CAR, rethread MC. Pull up on yarn as you start to knit across so no loop occurs between this and last part of MC knitting*.
Repeat from * to * 4 times more for 5 knotted loops. Remove on WY. Cut MC and make second piece same.
20-0-21 n’s in work. Starting at one side, hang last end of cord, the way it came off machine, on 5 n’s. Remove WY. Make knot in that section, by pulling entire cord through. Hang other end of this 42 row section, putting edge stitch on last needle used. There are 2 stitches on the 5th needle from edge. You will be able to tell which way to turn the cord to hang as the link of yarn between the waste yarn won't allow you to hang it the wrong way. After it is all hung, remove all WY. K1R This is wrong side facing. Bring n’s out, sts behind latches to make sure all knits. MC, T3, K1R.
RC000. *K3R. RTR (remove, turn, rehang). K3R. RTR. K2R. From right, take 3rd and then every other stitch to right for EON lace, empty n’s in work. K3R. RC011*. Repeat these 11 rows for pattern. Knit 300 rows (or more for desired length), ending row 11 of pattern. RTR. K2R. Remove on WY.
To get the knotted loops sitting right for the last end of the scarf, you need to make the knots and then graft the whole thing onto the scarf:
Using second set of cords, hang and make knots same as beginning. MC, T3, K1R. Remove on WY. Putting knit side to knit side of last rows, graft together.
Thursday, December 15, 2011
last minute idea...
I received a hand knit pattern by email yesterday from MistiAlpaca.com- I guess I’ve ordered yarn from them and they automatically put you on their mailing list and every couple of days, I get a new blurb, glance at it and then delete...anyway, this latest one had a scarf with these knitted balls as an edging. I read the instructions and thought, ‘good luck with that one!’ Although I can hand knit basics, when reading instructions, sometimes it seems like reading Greek to me. Making 7 stitches out of one stitch and knitting a few rows and then decreasing back down to one stitch, repeated across the row sounds a lot easier than it really is after I sorted through it a few times...But I was intrigued with the idea for having a different edging on a scarf. After the edging, there were 2 rows of making eyelets then 3 rows of stockinette, 3 rows of reverse stockinette and this was repeated throughout to make a scarf that was same on each side - nice idea, but I wanted something easier. I was going to make my granddaughter, Rhiana, a scarf to go with her new winter coat - the coat is grey with large, bright pink polka dots and I had some leftover yarn that would be just perfect. I know, my knotted loops edging would be cute added to a quick tube that would make it finished both sides! - Here’s a really quick last minute gift! Make it wider and twice as long, for a grown-up!!
Child’s Tube Scarf for Mid Gauge by Mary Anne Oger
The variegated or space dyed yarn adds lots of colour and the drop stitch technique makes big stitches and large colour blocks. Super easy and super fast! Knotted Loop Trim from Mid Gauge Magic by MAO!
Finished size: 3 inch wide; length, approx 40 inches. This one is child size, meant to wrap around neck once with knotted loop edges hanging in front.
Yarn: Coats & Clark Moda Dea Sassy Stripes, 100% acrylic, 1 - 135 m/50g ball.
Machine: Mid gauge 6.5mm, LK150 used.Knotted Loops Edge, 8 stitch repeat.
Make cord: WY, cast on 5 sts. K10R. CAL, break WY. Put CAR, MC, T3. *Set to slip (left side lever forward to circle, so that carriage slips to left and knits to right). Bring needles out past the latches so first row will knit. K42R. Take out MC without breaking and anchor at right side. Put CAL. Cancel slip. WY, K8R. Break WY. Put CAR, rethread MC. Pull up on yarn as you start to knit across so no loop occurs between this and last part of MC knitting*.
Repeat from * to * 4 times more for 5 knotted loops. Remove on WY. Cut MC and make second piece same.
20-0-21 n’s in work. Starting at one side, hang last end of cord, the way it came off machine, on 5 n’s. Remove WY. Make knot in that section, by pulling entire cord through. Hang other end of this 42 row section, putting edge stitch on last needle used. There are 2 stitches on the 5th needle from edge. You will be able to tell which way to turn the cord to hang as the link of yarn between the waste yarn won't allow you to hang it the wrong way. After it is all hung, remove all WY. K1R This is wrong side facing. Bring n’s out, sts behind latches to make sure all knits. MC, T3, K1R. From right, transfer 2nd st and then every other to right. Leave empty n’s in work. RC000. Knit 150 rows or until you almost run out of yarn. Save approx 60 inch to seam with. Don’t cut it!
From right, drop second and then every other stitch. Put empty n’s out of work.
Take off on WY, turn and rehang, still on EON. Bring empty n’s to work.
Using second set of cords, hang and make knots same as beginning. T9, K1R. Chain off. Piece will be approx 20 inches long.
Pull on fabric to unladder dropped stitches down to cast-on side.
Use tails to seam fabric into a tube. I found this easiest to do from purl side, taking half outside edge of ‘knot’ stitch of one side to next ‘knot’ stitch on other side. Turn scarf to right side.
Abbreviations
CAL (R) - carriage at left (right)
EON - every other needle
K1R - knit 1 row
MAO - Mary Anne Oger
MC - main colour
WY - waste yarn
Tuesday, December 13, 2011
it's better to give...
I feel like such a spoiled little kid - you know, the one who doesn’t want to share...I’ve finished making this ‘Let’s Swing Again’ (KW#44) for my daughter. I always say I’m not a ‘navy’ person and this is French navy wool crepe deluxe and I don’t want to give it to her!! I want to keep it and it’s not like I need it or anything - I’ve already remade it for myself 3 times, so I have the original and the black (see blog, Sep 6/09) and sand dune (see blog June 15/11) - I changed this one up a bit, made the sleeves full-length, added the cuff from ‘Rich Raglan’ and lengthened it by 3 inches and it looks totally different again! I’m going to call her and warn her it’s a limited time offer - she’d better come over and pick it up right away. (what a hard garment to photograph!!)
Thursday, December 8, 2011
time flies when you have excuses...
When I came back from the west coast, what with changing back to standard time too, it took me a long time to get over my jet lag. Then I had some tooth issues and had to go on an antibiotic which of course, I became allergic to - that was another week of grossness, itchyness, not nice. Then my daughter-in-law asked me to go to SeaWorld with her and Nate and Rhiana - I couldn't refuse - another week gone, what can I say? I did my shopping for my Christmas family (instead of stressing out over what to buy my grown-up family, I use that money and sponsor a needy family through Children’s Aid - it’s much more fun) so now, I’m back, ready to knit.
Before going out to CA for Newton’s, I did a remake of ‘Rich Raglan’ (from Serial Stuff 2) in plain black WCD - I specifically made it for my daughter, who has moved back to TBay after being away for 10 years - I have often said I was making something for her - she needs a longer sleeve length than mine, but somehow, after it was done, I never quite managed to get it packed up and sent off to her before I was tempted to wear it once or twice with the sleeves pushed up - well okay, several times, and then I felt like I couldn’t give it to her used...the really funny thing is that I’m now used to over-long sleeves and make them like that for me most of the time...
Anyway, last weekend, I did give her the black RR, unworn - she called me last night to say how much she loved it - it's perfect, fit exactly right, felt great to wear and is breathe-able!!! She likes it so much she wore it two days in a row! Well, if that wouldn’t make one feel worthwhile! The thing was, when she called, I was wearing my own red and black RR! I understand!
So, I now have 4 more projects for her in the queue and the hardest part is going to be deciding what colour to use for which! She likes true colours, more like what you’d find in the winter palette or what I call jewel tones, whereas I prefer off-colours or autumn shades but we are both good with red and black. The line-up: LSA (let’s swing again from No 44) maybe in french navy; Jazzy Jive (Serial Stuff 1) without the box pleat on the sleeve and a regular buttoned closing - I’m thinking poppy; Sophisticate (SS1) with long sleeves; and get this, Granville, just plain , maybe carob - wow, that’s easy - she likes the shape and feel and all, but doesn’t get the texture thing, wants it just plain. I’m not arguing, just plain knitting!
Before going out to CA for Newton’s, I did a remake of ‘Rich Raglan’ (from Serial Stuff 2) in plain black WCD - I specifically made it for my daughter, who has moved back to TBay after being away for 10 years - I have often said I was making something for her - she needs a longer sleeve length than mine, but somehow, after it was done, I never quite managed to get it packed up and sent off to her before I was tempted to wear it once or twice with the sleeves pushed up - well okay, several times, and then I felt like I couldn’t give it to her used...the really funny thing is that I’m now used to over-long sleeves and make them like that for me most of the time...
Anyway, last weekend, I did give her the black RR, unworn - she called me last night to say how much she loved it - it's perfect, fit exactly right, felt great to wear and is breathe-able!!! She likes it so much she wore it two days in a row! Well, if that wouldn’t make one feel worthwhile! The thing was, when she called, I was wearing my own red and black RR! I understand!
So, I now have 4 more projects for her in the queue and the hardest part is going to be deciding what colour to use for which! She likes true colours, more like what you’d find in the winter palette or what I call jewel tones, whereas I prefer off-colours or autumn shades but we are both good with red and black. The line-up: LSA (let’s swing again from No 44) maybe in french navy; Jazzy Jive (Serial Stuff 1) without the box pleat on the sleeve and a regular buttoned closing - I’m thinking poppy; Sophisticate (SS1) with long sleeves; and get this, Granville, just plain , maybe carob - wow, that’s easy - she likes the shape and feel and all, but doesn’t get the texture thing, wants it just plain. I’m not arguing, just plain knitting!
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