Friday, October 19, 2018

finishing details...

Attach the band to hood: bring out the needles, same number as the ribbed band (100 stitches). The hood edge has 120 sts so decrease 20 sts (100 divided by 20 is 5) which means you want to double up on every 5th needle as you are hanging. What I do to make it easy is go across the needle bed and bring every 5th needle slightly forward (start this on the 3rd needle from the right edge so you don’t have doubled sts at either end) and then using the 3-prong tool, hang 3 sts.
Pick up the next 3 sts and double up on the needle at right that already has one stitch. Pick up next 3 sts and hang on new needles. Continue across the row, doubling on every second pick up and it will work out perfectly! Remove the waste yarn, take the ribbed band, turn it and hang it stitch for stitch. Pull the band sts through the hood edge, manually knit loose row and chain off. Graft the back seam and try it on. Should be good to go.
Seam all the rest of the poncho and then pin the hood in place and try it on again just to be sure – the hood has to be deep enough from the top of the head to the neckline so it doesn’t hold the garment up off the shoulders and the front opening should be big enough for your face and most
important, the neck opening has to be large enough for the head to fit through! If any of these are compromised, you need to make another hood, fixing the issues but I’m good to go!  
You could stitch this in by hand but who’s kidding who? I’m doing it on the LK! Because it is a circle, start at one end and do it in sections.  There are no open stitches, it’s all closed edge on both pieces. I want the seam to be on the inside, so am putting right sides together, hanging the body first, right side facing me and then the hood piece, wrong facing. I leave it all pinned together from the try-on and just un-pin the section I’m working on.
To keep track that each side will be the same, start off figuring out how many needles for the entire neckline, so hold the centre back at 0, pull the centre front to the right – I got 55 needles for half the neckline. It’s my experience that the back-neck area of any garment should be pulled in slightly and the width of the back neck was 20 sts half plus the 3 cm/1 inch drop and I want to reduce that width slightly,
so I hang it over 20-0-20 needles. Put the shoulder seam at #21 right and then stretch out the front neck to the centre of the garment and hang the edge, half the outside edge stitch. This will likely be a bit less than the original 55, mine was at #50. Now, hang the hood section, from the centre front to the first shoulder.
Manually knit fairly loose sts – not quite all the way back to ‘B’ but close (just doing a single row to join and cast-off all in one – no need for the extra bulk of a joining row and casting off!) - to the shoulder and then chain those off except the last one. Hang the back neck, over to the opposite shoulder (#20 left), and then the hood. On this section, for the 16-0-16 section, the loose stitch for the chain cast-off is a little smaller to further draw in the back neck. Finish off the other side. Throw it over your head to make sure all is still good and breathe a huge sigh of relief!
Got ‘er done with still plenty of wearing days left for this season!
Hope this all makes sense!

Friday, October 12, 2018

rib recap...

1X1 rib, E4N std gauge
I’m making the cuffs for the poncho (1X1 rib made on the standard gauge ribber). If I hold the edge for the cuff up to the LK150, it appears that 20-0-20 stitches are needed. To set this up on the standard gauge, I am using 40-0-40 needles, selecting every 4th needle on the main bed and then the alternate 4th needles on the rib bed. The cuff
row of stockinette after rib

ribbing should be tighter than what is on the hem band so am doing it at T8/8 for 20 rows. Again, transfer up to the main bed and it is every other needle for a row of stockinette before waste yarn. TIP, before cutting, measure off the main yarn, 4 times the width of needles in work to have enough for the cast-off row on the LK! Two less ends to darn in! Ditto for the face band and for the grafted seam at the back of the hood.
sleeve edge on LK

To attach, hang the sleeve edge of the poncho on the LK150, knit/right side facing you. Turn the band and hang stitches in the hooks of the needles.
hang cuff
Put the garment part behind the latches, with the stitches still in the hooks. Close the latches and push back on needle butts to pull that row through the closed edge to join the pieces. Knit loose row and chain off!
loose row for cast-off

finished cuff with std gauge selector

For the hood, I’m using the same schematic as the Oxymoron Cardi which was almost the same as Milky Way (but a little deeper and I had grafted the back seam because it laid flatter and neater)  which was from Lacy in Red, KW#40, Love the hood on Oxy (I know I didn’t show you, but I will soon, promise!), fits just right and really looks nice up or down and I think it will be just right for the poncho.
mylar  - follow red line
This hood is knit from the face edge (in one piece), back to the back of the head and the side edges are shaped with decreases to fit to the neckline. The stitch gauge tells me to have 60-0-60 sts (120 total) for the full width of the hood and I want to have a ribbed edge on the front of the hood. To do it in one piece on the standard gauge ribber, I can only get 100 sts total which is fine because I used a few less stitches for the front band on the Oxy hood and it works great, snugs the open edge of the hood in nicely, especially when it is laying over your back. 
hood before
Here, I made the hood band first, T10/10, 10 rows, but I will knit the hood on the LK150 starting with waste yarn. The band will be attached later because it will be easier to rehang the hood edge, gathering in the extra stitches evenly spaced rather than trying to hang the ribbed band and increasing across for the extra stitches! Attach the front face band before grafting the back of the hood or it won't open up enough to stretch across for the band. Just sayin'...

Friday, October 5, 2018

yeah, i cheated....

Don't hate me because I’m more than a one-machine-pony! heh-heh! I do like my LK150, but does that mean that I have to sit there and hand-latch every other stitch for 10 rows of 1X1 rib times 4? Hell no!
On this poncho – I’m calling it the Thunder Bay Poncho because we need more that just a wide scarf that drapes the shoulders – this one also swaddles your butt and keeps your arms and sides warm, making it good for even a warm-ish winter day! Anyway, the original had narrow stockinette bands all round which was fine, but on my tweedy one, 1 did change those to 1X1 rib and even though it was close to 20 years ago, I do vaguely remember knitting the bands on the standard gauge ribber and then rehanging it on the LK150. If it makes you feel better, I did have to make the first one now only about four times before I got it right. I needed 80 stitches for the bottom so without thinking it through all the way, I set up and knit 80-0-80 sts in 1X1 rib at T10 on the standard gauge. Transferred up and knit a row which turned out to be much stiffer than I thought it should be but I reasoned that I was using DK weight on the 4.5mm machine...took it off and brought it over to the LK and saw that I had twice as many stitches as needed but also, it wouldn’t be wide enough if it was only 40-0-40 needles. Probably because I have been doing a lot of tuck ribbing previous to this, I felt a lightbulb go on and figured all I’d need to do was add tuck on the rib bed because that widens things out. Set up 1X1 rib on 40-0-40 needles, adding in tuck after the cast-on. Proceeded to get about 5 rows done before admitting defeat on that process. As I pried that off the machine, another bulb went on and I realized it should be Every-Other-Needle 1X1 rib which means every 4th needle in work on the main bed and than the alternate every 4th needle on the rib bed!
But, I’m still ahead of the game! Made all four bottom bands, starting with the manual wrap cast-on to make sure it was all stretchy enough, T10/10, knit 10 rows, carefully watching that every stitch knit through properly, transferred up to the main bed, knit a row of stockinette which is now every other needle in work and then several rows of waste yarn. Take the band, turn it and hang on the LK150, on every needle, so the plain row becomes a nice purl stitch ridge before beginning the stockinette.
Happy Canadian Thanksgiving and may  we all be thankful for pumpkin! 

Tuesday, October 2, 2018


I’ve had several enquiries about poncho patterns lately. And it begs the question, what exactly, is a poncho? Is it a blanket, a shawl, a wrap? Mostly, I’ve always thought of a poncho as being a thing that goes over your head and covers up easily, mostly worn for warmth. Back in the day it was in late winter way back when, I made this thing called It’s a Wrap. Made on the LK150, the pattern was in the Spring 1999, Knitwords No.8 and the caption read:
Call it a poncho, cape or cloak! Whatever, it’s lovely to wear and easy to knit! A great yarn (alpaca/wool), knit in stockinette, really wide, a long-sloped shoulder with a small cuff to create a ‘sleeve’ and a vee neck opening filled in with another piece of stockinette collar. One size fits all!

We had a great time at the photoshoot with it and I wore it a few times after then, sister Marnie fell in love with it and asked for it. Of course, I gave it to her but I kind of missed it.
I re-engineered it to delete some of the volume at the sides, re-knit it using a tweedy DK yarn and I’ve been wearing it off and on for the past almost 20 years, both spring and fall. When I got the first query about a poncho pattern, I dearly wanted to remake this one again and add a hood – I’ve already admitted to being a hoodie junkie – but because this one is black and goes with virtually everything, I didn’t feel justified in making a new one for myself. My d-i-l was over the other day and I asked her if she’d like a poncho – she was thrilled, tried mine one, picked out a colour and timidly asked if she could have a hood on hers!

Friday, September 14, 2018


Seems to me like this project is taking forever or is it just my imagination? My first post on this was almost three and a half weeks ago - that’s a long time for me to have something in the works. You won’t believe this, but summer has got in the way and is continuing! Usually if we get two nice days in a row, we are pretty lucky and we make jokes about summer was on a Tuesday this year. Many times, we have a hard frost around Labour Day but not this year, it’s still really lovely and green and I’m taking advantage of the nice weather! I just had to share this photo – my favourite piece of graffiti ever, spotted at the top of a hill on my favourite local hike!
Finally got both pockets done, put the sleeves in and can try this on to decide further design elements and I just remembered I promised a little note here about the needle arrangement and where to have your underarm shaping end to give the nicest
following the black line
seaming. According to my schematic, I should be decreasing to #50 at the end of the underarm and then continuing straight up to the shoulder line. #50 happens to be a rib stitch and I know that won’t look so great (experience!). The seamline will look best if there are two purl stitches at the edge, one for the seam and one beside the rib stitch so I actually decrease to #48 which gives me the two stitches on the main bed at the edge – you might wonder why I went smaller instead of bigger? Mostly because this being a rib fabric, it is stretchier than just stockinette and I like my shoulder/sleeve to fit nicely, not sloppy – I am going for a close fit here, not like I’m wanting to layer a fleece jacket under this cardigan.

Another note – at the top of the shoulder, I did shortrow about a 1.5 cm slope which is about 5 to 6 rows. Bearing in mind that I’ve said to shortrow on the main bed only (transfer rib stitch up before holding), at the end of the shortrows, everything is on the main bed, I knit a row to get rid of the wraps and remove the shoulder on waste. When rehanging to join the shoulder, on the first piece that is hung, purl side facing, pull out that row of stockinette. Then, after hanging the second side (you can't rip out this row because it's the wrong way), pull this set of stitches through the first/back set to make the join and there will only be one row of stockinette which gives a nice dividing line between the two pieces.
Happy seaming!

Tuesday, September 11, 2018

is it synchronicity? ...

or déjà vu? Last week I got an email from Stephanie telling me that someone (Pamela) had posted a photo of a poncho she had made from Winter 2004 Knitwords (means nothing to me, I go by the issue number which was #31) on Facebook Plastic Midgauge Machines KAL group and she wondered if the pattern was still available and how she could get it. I am Facebook-challenged, I admit it!. She sent me the link and I could see that the poncho in question was one I had made, called Tweed Angel. The funny/strange thing about it was the fact that the poncho was plated, and I was just working on a blogpost
talking about plating, whether to do it or not. That particular poncho is made on the LK150 and one of the really awesome features of that machine is plating - I did a garment in Knit'nStyle, Dec 2013, #188 that was a sideways Swing Jacket, along with a good article (I thought anyway) explaining plating, why and why not. Back to Tweed Angel, it is actually two reverse-shortrowed triangles that are grafted together, leaving an opening for the neckline. We showed it as a sideways knit, which made sense to me because the wider portion fits better over the arms and then the slash neck opening becomes a vee neck look.

I dug out the pattern, set it up as a pdf for those who might wish to purchase and realized there were a few things missing from the original pattern – how to finish the neckline and how to wear it. I re-knit it to make sure I hadn’t missed anything else, plating a strand of cashmere with a finer tweed wool that I had. It turned out pretty nice, but I knew I didn’t have enough yarn for the fringe, so I’ve added one of my 1X1 tuck trims.
Hold piece evenly up to needle bed, stretching very slightly, to determine number of stitches. Purl side facing, hang each end. Hang back half of outside row on every other needle, missing the odd one every so often and then fill in opposite needles with front half of outside stitch. I used 70-0-70 ns. (Single Crochet-Look Tuck Edge from The Handbook  for Manual Machine Knitters by MAO)

See my old blogpost for more options on using this shortrowed triangle. P.S. I would have posted a link to this on that Facebook page, but I couldn't figure it out! ;-)

Monday, September 10, 2018

the big reveal...

first pickup for band
The pocket top/band is ribbed, with an RTR in there to give a nice division between the band and the join onto the garment. The stockinette patch is made and waiting.
2nd pickup to attach patch
To put it all together, with the purl/right side of garment facing you, right side up (hem below), hang the main yarn loops on top of bottom loops of ravel cord. Turn band over and hang, wrong side facing you, pull through and using long tail from pocket top, manually knit loose row and chain off. 
before pulling out ravel cord
Without turning anything, hang the row of main yarn that is under the top of the ravel cord loops. Hang patch, purl side facing, pull through other stitches and cast off. From the front,
front of garment
it really looks wrong – the band is below the un-opened opening and the patch is above. When you pull out the ravel cord, the band folds up, the patch tucks inside and it’s all good!

finished, inside

My techniques handout to tell you how to do this pocket?
email me and ask for the Oxymoron Cardi pocket.

Friday, September 7, 2018

to plate or not to plate...

‘member last week, I mentioned plating? Said I didn’t do it but I’d ‘splain later. I am knitting the Oxymoron Cardi with two strands of yarn, one is a greyish mid brown and the other is a darker, olive colour. I threaded them up without plating because I was sure I’d like the tweedy look that would result, and truth be told, I was really taking the easy way out because I had no idea where the ribber plating feeder was.
I am at the point of finishing the pocket, an inside patch with a ribbed top using the knit side as the right side for a contrast to the purl side of the main fabric. I generally have a fair amount of confidence and I think I know what I am doing, but even I know to make a swatch of a new technique to be sure. And, it will be another sample to take to my next workshop. WooHoo! I’ve been invited to do a two-day seminar in Pigeon Forge, TN  for the Tennessee Valley Machine Knitters at the end of March 2019! So excited! I’ve never been to Tennessee – just think, the Grand Ole Opry, maybe a little Graceland, Dollywood…
finished plated swatch

Anyway, back to the swatch! Was remembering the plating thing so, after searching high and low to find the plating feeder for the rib arm, I knit the swatch. It’s a little finicky to thread up for plating, but for the first half of the swatch, I had the dark green in feeder B (it shows predominantly on the purl side) with the lighter shade in A (shows on the knit side). I swapped them for the top portion so you could see what happens. And I am even more happy that I decided not to plate. ;-)

inside of plated swatch
Made the sample pocket top 14R – the 2 cm one on Milky Way is a bit skimpy. And the inside patch is just stockinette – notice how it is random stripey  - not plated and that’s what happens with two colours in stockinette and maybe why you might want to plate that fabric....
More on the actual pocket execution later, I promise.

Wednesday, August 29, 2018

more notes....

Needle set-up for A-line shaped side
 I like the A-line shape, similar to Pocket Change and Lipstick and Smoke, so have gone back to that – the side seams will be decreased evenly from hemline to underarm but did not add shortrowing at the centre bottom to even out the hemline, so the hemline/side seam will dip slightly.
3-prong tool decrease to rib stitch

Decreasing in rib with an uneven needle arrangement like this – what to do:

. . . l l l . l l l . l l l . ~  l l l . l l l . l l l . l l l . . .

   . . . .  l . . . l . . . l .~  . . l . . . l . . . l . . . .

transfer rib stitch up, 6 sts on MB
When setting up the needle arrangement, add an extra needle at the right side and select from the centre so that you have the same thing at each edge. For the Back and Fronts, which will be decreased at the side seams, I had my edges with three stitches on the main bed at the ends and these remained constant throughout, meaning that the three edge stitches were moved in one space, putting the decrease on the now third needle from the edge. If there was a rib stitch within that, then, transfer it up to the main bed (knit the tuck stitch through before transferring up) and put the empty needle out of work. After getting rid of the rib stitch, there will be five stitches on the main bed. Continue decreasing with the 3-prong tool on the main bed, moving the three edge stitches in one space and only transferring the rib stitch up as it occurs within the main bed decrease. Remember to put the empty needle out of work.
For the Centre Front edge (and the armhole, after the underarm shaping, straight part up to the shoulder, seaming will look better with a 2-stitch main bed edge from the tuck rib line – hope you know what I mean – I’ll reference this later in another blogpost when I’m putting together.
By the way, these increase and decrease methods apply for both knit side and purl side fabrics
pocket opening for later
marker row for pocket opening
Pocket in rib fabric (this will be an inside patch with ribbed pocket top, added after); on row before the pocket opening, transfer rib stitches to main bed and put rib needle out of work – mark the needle numbers so the next one will be same, and you know where it should be. Knit one row – this makes a plain stockinette row on the bottom side of the pocket opening (to be picked up later). Now, manually knit a plain row of ravel cord on the needles for the width of the pocket only, aiming for the same stitch size as you have with the main yarn. Pull the ends of the ravel cord down between the beds in front of the work, out of the way. Knit a row with the pattern yarn – this makes the stockinette row on the top side of the opening. Now, transfer the stitches back down to rib bed following set needle arrangement. Finish knitting Front. Pocket will be completed later, and I’ll tell you more then!
I forgot to mention, just in case you didn’t know, I am using the yarn double stranded and that means each strand  is threaded  up into each side of the tension mast separately and they are only joined together as they feed into the arm on the carriage – that way, you don’t get loops of one strand travelling up on the other and causing trouble. Just saying…

Monday, August 27, 2018

look at that seam....

Got a few notes for you here:
1. Increasing in rib with an uneven needle arrangement like this – what to do:

l l . l l l . l l l . l l l . l l
. . l . . . l . . . l . . . l . . .

1st step - 2 edge sts

First, when setting up your needle arrangement, add an extra needle at the right side and select from the centre so that you have the same thing at each edge. For the sleeve, which will be increased, I had my edges with two stitches on the main bed at the ends and these remained constant throughout. Meaning that the two edge stitches were moved out one space, bringing a new needle to work on the
2nd step - 3 sts on MB
MB and then the heel stitch of the second stitch from the edge was hung on the now empty third needle from edge to complete the increase – don’t worry about the rib needle until there are three needles past (which means six needles on main bed) and then transfer that main bed stitch down, leaving an empty needle, to continue the existing needle arrangement.  
3rd step - 6 sts on MB
4th - transfer st to RB

In other words, the rib stitch isn’t brought to work until there are six needles in work at the edge on the main bed.

2. Shortrowing for sleeve cap: on the row before it is to be ‘held’ or shortrowed, transfer the rib stitch to the empty main bed needle and then put it in hold on the next row as needed. This way you won’t be having held stitches on both beds and when it is time to cast them off, they are already up on the main bed. Oh yeah, that tuck rib stitch, turn it into a real stitch before transferring it, either by manually knitting it through the tuck, or by bring the needle up  (fully out, like D/E but no hold buttons on) on the rib bed on the row before which will cancel the tuck and make it knit.
3. Seaming a purl side fabric on the machine: this seam needs to be flat to open out and look neat. Hang first side, purl side facing you, hanging only half the outside edge stitch. Hang the second side, putting purl sides together – looking at the knit side now, still hanging only half of the edge stitch – this one is a little tougher but its worth the effort to take your time and of course, you’re matching the increases (or yarn marks, if you remembered them – I didn’t put them because I knew I would be able to see that new rib stitch and use it as the match point). After it is all hung and looking good, bring the needles out, leaving the work behind the latches and using one strand of the yarn ( I used the darker one to blend in better), by hand, manually knit a fairly loose row and chain it off. This allows each side to open out flat and make a really nice seam, looking good on both knit side and purl side so the turned back cuff is very neat too. Hope you agree!
More on decreasing and a new pocket technique later!

Friday, August 24, 2018

blame it on Mike...

As I was knitting the second sleeve, it occurred to me that I’ve made this stitch pattern before. Way back in the early Knitwords issues, when I got a Passap pattern that I knew could be done on the Japanese machine, I would copy it and ‘Japanese-ify’ the pattern – I don’t know how many knitters liked this, but I learned a ton about double bed knitting for my experiments. Anyway, for issue #3, Winter 1997, Mike Becker sent me a pattern and garment that he had done on the Passap and he told me it was stockinette rib, so I called it the Oxymoron Pullover.
This is a variation of that stitch pattern – he used a 4X1 needle arrangement and for my old version, it was 5X1 rib. I’m using 3X1 now because I’m lazy and I have a 3X1 needle selector!

You guessed it, this is going to be the Oxymoron Cardi!

Monday, August 20, 2018

did you miss me? …

We’ve actually been having summer here in Thunder Bay and I’ve been enjoying it. We had a fabulous time in Minneapolis – the Founder’s Fest was so much fun – thanks to the organizers and attendees, I felt I was with a bunch of close, good friends. Sorry I didn’t get a photo of Milky Way, but I promise when the heat and humidity and bad hair days are over, I will. I debated making it again as there were a few things that bothered me about it, mainly the pocket placement – I should have planned it so the pocket top lined up with the beginning or end of one of the lace stripes but when I mentioned that at the seminar they all thought I was being way too picky but I’m still thinking about it.
My new project is that same 3X1 tuck rib from the hems of Milky Way for another longline cardigan, all in that rib, with the purl side as the outside. I have a small stash of Forsell Naturell, a wool/alpaca blend that I’ve used extensively in the past, but unfortunately, it is long NLA (no longer available) but I have some partial cones that I thought would do, mainly 2 almost full (350g each) cones of lima (medium brown) in the same dyelot. My second choice is pullo (an olive shade), one full cone (400g) and a half cone of a different dyelot. To not waste my good stuff, I made the swatch with a grey and a pale blue that weren’t enough for anything other than swatching – using it double stranded to get the weight I want. The swatch turned out beautiful, so I threaded up the two browns and knit a sleeve.
Done, it weighs 50g which means pretty certain I won’t have enough to make this as long as I want - the fold-back cuff on the sleeve is taking up more than usual and maybe I want a hood…
I may regret this, but making an executive decision, I threaded up one strand of the olive with a brown and knocked out another sleeve. You might ask if I plated the yarn, but no – I didn’t do that with the swatch and it looks fine. Plating, there's a subject for another day!

Friday, July 20, 2018

couldn't help it...

I was going to take this to MSP, basically in pieces and use it for some of my demos, of seaming and doing that second pocket but as I got closer to the end, I just couldn’t stop. Rationalizing, my thought was that it would look so much nicer finished up, washed and dried and I could model it – you know how I love to show off! And let’s face it, a unshrunk cotton garment can be pretty scary…I’ll just make a couple extra swatches for the demos.
For the hood, I used the method and schematic for KW#40, Lacy in Red because the shape was suitable and I wanted the face to be framed with the rib and not have a seam on the top of the head, so the rib and lace look nice when the hood is down which will be 99.9% of the time.
Dropped by the fabric store the other day  to check out buttons and gosh-darn there was next to nothing. Had decided I wanted a one inch/25 mm button or even 1 1/8 inch/28 mm would do but slim pickings! I did find a card of 28 mm that was almost ok – I figured I could doctor the colour with nail polish or paint – there were 2 per card at $3.80 and I need five or six  buttons – I was about to purchase - did the math and came to my senses - figured I’d better check my at-home button stash! Yup, I actually had better choices already, but only 5 of the one I liked colourwise. Usually I don’t pick shiny buttons but I’ll be ok with these, I’m sure. To make a swatch of the buttonhole prior to the actual band - the rib is a 4-stitch repeat; on the main bed, three needles in work, 1 out all across, with Swing P and on the rib bed, only every fourth needle in work, opposite the needle out of work from the main bed and this stitch is tucking every other row – I did that so the single stitch on the rib bed wouldn’t disappear in the fold and the tuck adds a bit of width to the whole thing.
Back to the buttonhole, my experience tells me that I need to cast off about 5 stitches for the size of the chosen button (25mm) so the big question is where to best position the buttonhole in the rib for it to look and perform the best. Make two and then decide.
Here’s the needle arrangement:
l l . l l l . l l l . l l l . l l
. . l . . . l . . . l . . . l . . .
I made one with the rib stitches at each end and one with the rib stitch in the centre and it looked the best – the one at the top, the first one opened too wide and just looked like a big hole whereas the centred rib stitch seemed to control the depth better so I went with that one – they were both 5 stitches wide.
Got the bands made and attached; put most every thing together and darned in most ends – didn’t attach the hood in case the front bands weren’t right – not that I didn’t have confidence, just that, as you can see, the unshrunk cotton garment can be deceiving – a horizontal band is going to shrink the opposite way to the vertical length of the garment and if necessary, it will be easier to remove and replace the bands without having to take the hood off as well.
Wash and dry and whew! looks great, must have planned that! Final photos later!
Calling this one Milky Way.