If you were at listening to me at a seminar, you may have heard me talking about shortrowing at the hemline to add a curve to the bottom to compensate for the Aline – basically A-line shaping means decreasing evenly spaced up the side seam from the hem to the underarm, which creates an angle and makes a longer line than what you will have at the centre front/back of the garment. To avoid that pulled-up or shorter look, I usually add extra rows in the centre of the Back and Fronts, depending on the overall length and width of the garment. On Pocket Change and Ozark, it was 8 rows beginning right after the first row of main colour on the main bed, after the hem. Doing it on Ozark was the first time I did this on a striped garment. Only after the cardigan was totally finished, I was wearing it and admiring myself in my full-length mirror, did I realize that because of the stripes, this was noticeable – to me anyway – not likely anyone else. To avoid that in this striped version, I spread the shortrows out in several stripes. Instead of making 8 shortrows one after another, I did 2 rows in the charcoal, holding 30 sts at centre, twice, then on the silver stripe, I held 40 sts twice, with 50 sts in the next large silver stripe and ending up with 60 sts in the red stripe. Hope this makes sense!
the colours – my plan was to have red all around the edges, with the bands. I
kept the hemline the same Back and Front and the top is all charcoal. I thought
this would keep it from looking too wild.
patch pocket – the one in Ozark works
well, no sagging or bagging - I made this one slightly larger and revised that
method from March 28. I realized I over-complicated things for the final
cast-off and the top of the pocket is finished with an easier, double stranded
loose row that is just chained off – I edited that post to reflect the change.
Had to re-engineer
the collar slightly and compensate for less width at the centre front – Ozark had an overlap and the longstitch
facings, so this collar is not as wide overall and the angle from the neck to
the shoulder had to be changed.
band from Geezer Chic, KW #50 – I
made a swatch of the tubular band, using 6-0-6 ns, a little narrower because of
the larger gauge with this yarn. I got a row gauge (after washing and drying!)
of 80 rows to 10 cm. How to figure out buttonhole placement? I was chuckling as
I did this – at the Spring Fling seminar some one brought up the question of
how many buttons should be on a garment and someone else said they had heard
that an uneven number was the ‘rule’. Well, I had never heard that, and it was
quite funny because as I put each garment on during my presentation, they could
see there is apparently no rhyme or rule to the MAO method of buttoning a
garment. My only rule is, because I have a large bust, the most important
button for me is at the bust point and I work from there. The bust point is
usually at the same spot as the beginning of the underarm shaping – convenient
but, I’m talking about my patterns, remember. I like my armholes high, whether
it has a sleeve or not. So especially for a vertically made band, this is easy
to figure – I look at my schematic and take the side seam measurement, add in
the hem (and any shortrows) and that is my starting position (58 cm). Then,
based on the width of the band and the size of the button (I will usually have
purchased buttons by now, taking my swatch to the store - the number of buttons
on a card and the price will play a part here) I can determine where the
buttonholes will start and finish. 4 in/10 cm between buttons is good for the
7/8 in/23 mm button I have chosen, so I add the size of the buttonhole to the 4
inches and round it to 5 inches between the start of each vertical buttonhole.
Based on my swatch, I can work back to having the first hole start at 20 cm
from the bottom of the hem, and 5 holes will do it, with the top one likely
never being buttoned and the 4th one exactly at my bust point/underarm.
just realized in that pattern, Geezer Chic,
I never told how to finish off the band – either no one ever made it, or they
figured it out for themselves! I’m going to go with the latter but here’s what
I do. Knit the number of rows for the band and at the end – don’t cast off.
Just close the end by switching to full needle rib/zigzag, tighten the tension
to about T4/4 and K3R. Cut the yarn and drop from the machine. Being cotton,
this needs to be laundered before attaching the band. I put it together, except
for attaching the sleeves and the bands (and the patch pockets). Darn in the
ends on the sleeves, side seams etc. but not the centre front edges – these
tails can be drawn into the tubular band after and save some time. After
laundering, pin band in place, try on and check that it looks good. The end can
be ripped back to the required length. Then, simply take the tail of yarn in a
darning needle and thread it through the loops, one from each side across the
row to the other side and secure it to the desired width. No point in trying to
cast off as it will just widen, stiffen and look bad. Do this after the band is attached - I just took this photo to show you how to do it.
calling this Lipstick and Smoke!