Monday, August 27, 2018

look at that seam....

Got a few notes for you here:
1. Increasing in rib with an uneven needle arrangement like this – what to do:

l l . l l l . l l l . l l l . l l
. . l . . . l . . . l . . . l . . .

1st step - 2 edge sts

First, when setting up your needle arrangement, add an extra needle at the right side and select from the centre so that you have the same thing at each edge. For the sleeve, which will be increased, I had my edges with two stitches on the main bed at the ends and these remained constant throughout. Meaning that the two edge stitches were moved out one space, bringing a new needle to work on the
2nd step - 3 sts on MB
MB and then the heel stitch of the second stitch from the edge was hung on the now empty third needle from edge to complete the increase – don’t worry about the rib needle until there are three needles past (which means six needles on main bed) and then transfer that main bed stitch down, leaving an empty needle, to continue the existing needle arrangement.  
3rd step - 6 sts on MB
4th - transfer st to RB

In other words, the rib stitch isn’t brought to work until there are six needles in work at the edge on the main bed.

2. Shortrowing for sleeve cap: on the row before it is to be ‘held’ or shortrowed, transfer the rib stitch to the empty main bed needle and then put it in hold on the next row as needed. This way you won’t be having held stitches on both beds and when it is time to cast them off, they are already up on the main bed. Oh yeah, that tuck rib stitch, turn it into a real stitch before transferring it, either by manually knitting it through the tuck, or by bring the needle up  (fully out, like D/E but no hold buttons on) on the rib bed on the row before which will cancel the tuck and make it knit.
3. Seaming a purl side fabric on the machine: this seam needs to be flat to open out and look neat. Hang first side, purl side facing you, hanging only half the outside edge stitch. Hang the second side, putting purl sides together – looking at the knit side now, still hanging only half of the edge stitch – this one is a little tougher but its worth the effort to take your time and of course, you’re matching the increases (or yarn marks, if you remembered them – I didn’t put them because I knew I would be able to see that new rib stitch and use it as the match point). After it is all hung and looking good, bring the needles out, leaving the work behind the latches and using one strand of the yarn ( I used the darker one to blend in better), by hand, manually knit a fairly loose row and chain it off. This allows each side to open out flat and make a really nice seam, looking good on both knit side and purl side so the turned back cuff is very neat too. Hope you agree!
More on decreasing and a new pocket technique later!


Tom Machine Knitting Guy said...

Excellent information and photos. Info is clear and easy for any Machine Knitter to follow along!

Mary Lowe said...

Hi Mary Anne
Thank you so much for this very clear and informative post, it will hopefully help those who are frightened of doing ribber work!!