sew, knit, it's all stitches...

 A little sewing, a little knitting. I’m onto knitting the side panels and realized I forgot to take the cone weight out of the beginning amount - I’m down to 140g after the sleeves and feeling a little tense, even though visuals and common sense tells me the side panel is slightly smaller than the sleeve. While knitting the first side panel, I’m formulating a backup plan. I had used this yarn quite a lot and I remembered a small lace poncho I had made back in the poncho days -   https://knitwords.blogspot.com/2020/10/handy-work - Look at the bottom of that post for 'Glamour' - I remember making a ton of those - I could unravel that if necessary. 

At the underarm point of the side panel, it’s like making a neckline, although this one isn’t symmetrical - and, because I want this to be as smooth as possible, I’m going to shortrow the decreases but because of the indigo dye, this yarn won’t stand up to regular holding position of having the needles out and the back and forth of 50 or so passes over that row will make a lighter colour line across and though I might be able to convince myself that it doesn’t really matter since it is at the underarm and maybe won’t show so much, reality is it will show on the back. 

Here’s my tip - using the ravel cord method, put the first side - at right of 0, (here, this is the back side) to hold by knitting the stitches back out of work using the ravel cord and then cover the front with an old swatch, ( just happen to have a neckband waste yarn swatch that has a single-row cast-on that won’t add any extra bulk to the situation) hanging it on the sinker posts/gate pegs to prevent  damaging your work. 

Complete the left side, remove the
protective swatch, pull the sts back to work by carefully pulling out the ravel cord, and then knit the right side following the schematic. Second panel has to be knit in reverse…and I’m weighing the remaining yarn every 50 rows…no worries, at least 10g remain!

against all odds…

A denim jacket, like the camo one. Make it an inch

longer, don't use shank buttons and no fabric cuffs. Not sure if the shank button is the reason I don't want cuffs but changing it up is good! 

My options for the knit fabric…Wool Crepe Deluxe (what I used last time and know it works) in midnight, or denim bouclé, old stuff I used many times and. of course, there's that denimy-shades 6/2 cotton  http://knitwords.blogspot.com/2024/02/ta-da.html that I used last year for the remake of my Tennessee Tunic - perfect colours but it’s not really as ‘hard-wearing’ as I’d like for this project.  I want something that’s going to have a little stretch, yet still be firm enough that it won’t bag out or get a ton of pill balls on it so going with the  denim bouclé.

Checked Knitwords #35, 'Made to Fade'. It was stockinette T8, with a gauge of 28 sts and 55R. My theory lately, after all those button-front lace hoodies, lace and stockinette should be the same gauge…I looked up my all-time favourite lace skirt,   https://knitwords.blogspot.com/2012/06/update-better-late.html using this same yarn - that gauge was 29 sts and 52 rows at T8 lace carriage, took a chance, decided to call it T9 with the knit carriage and go with the 28s/52r gauge. The partial cone I had weighed 310g which I thought should be
enough. 

I got lucky and was able to recognize my mylar schematic from 5 yrs ago. Knit the first sleeve - it looked huge, 82 cm long! What the heck? With 'trust your swatch' ringing in my ears (even if you didn't actually make one ;)),  I quickly knit the second, threw them both in the wash along with a couple of jeans, crossed my fingers and eyes and went for a walk! 

Put it all in the dryer and channel surfed while waiting. Found ‘The Great British Sewing Bee’ ohmigosh, so much fun, even better than the great British baking show! The comedian here was better, the judges, so cute - an old gal, a self-described diva, and the man,  supposedly from ‘Saville Row’! the sewing was brutal, the contestants fun and varied, judges very liberal and nice, what a winner! I loved it!

After the dryer, I could hardly stand it! Unbelievably, the sleeves are the exact size (55 cm) I planned! Wow! If I tried a stunt like that back in the day!

, 

denim delight…

One of my favourite projects from the past few years has been that  camo Jean jacket from 2019, where, I knit the side panels and sleeves because I didn't have enough fabric for the entire sewing project -https://knitwords.blogspot.com/2019/07/camoflague.html - that’s the start of the story. If you’re really interested, go back and, down on the right side, click  on 2019, July to see what happened. Here’s the finale  https://knitwords.blogspot.com/2019/08/now-i-know-why.html  

I still love it, have worn it a lot, have wanted another but trying to find just the right print fabric in the right weight/thickness  been the main issue. Our local Fabricland has been drastically reduced, and travelling in the past five years, blah, blah, blah, you know the story. In October this year, I went to Vancouver to visit little sis. Checking the internet and local sources there proved discouraging. We even went to the island and hit Nanaimo, which had listings for 3 fabric stores!! Oh my! Yeah, you know it, the internet lies! They weren’t fabric stores, they were quilt shops! Disappointing doesn’t cover it. 

Anyway, last month, manfriend and I went to Duluth, Mn and found a Joann! Omg! There was two denim-y prints that looked quite good and since I couldn’t decide which one, light or dark, came home with both! 

Working on the dark one first…

it's tea time...

Or so I thought! Let me backtrack a bit. When I made the first swatch and saw the shading that was going on because of different dye lots, especially on the stockinette swatch, I flashbacked to my very early years and recalled when I used to use steeped tea to dye my white bra to a nude/skin tone (I’m talking fifty years ago - you may have been able to buy nude tone bras at the time, but maybe not where I lived or maybe I didn’t have the extra cash to buy both a white and a nude bra) and it was pre-Martha Stewart! Anyway, now I had in the back of my mind that I could use tea to colour the two white shades to an ecru shade that would still give me the benefit of a non-colour that would go with anything. 

I did try it out on the original swatch (which was the same as the Back) and it looked very promising - even the acrylic yarn took the tea shade well, so I jumped in, let’s do this! Made my tea, 4 tea bags (orange pekoe black tea) in 4  cups hot water and let it steep for  an hour or so. Dumped that into my large soup pot and added enough warm water to more than enough to cover the garment. Swished it around several times, every ten minutes, let it sit for a couple of hours. Dumped it out, wrung the garment and put it in the washer with a bit of detergent, let it finish and tossed it in the dryer. Yikes! How could I go so wrong? I couldn’t even take a picture - it was all mottled, ugly and the Back was still distinctly much lighter than the other parts!

And I thought, oh freaking heck! I can’t show that to anyone! What the aich am I going to do? Next thing, here I am, madly googling, how to remove tea stains? Baking soda! Huh! Well, of course, I dreamt about it all night! Omg! May be I could just not say anything more and get into a new project…but I felt like that would be lying. 

Tried the baking soda, didn’t really do much but it is a little more even-looking, not quite as patchy. I’m going to live with it over the next few months and weigh my options. I could try that painting technique that I used for the tiger stripe thing https://knitwords.blogspot.com/2011/01/tiger-in-my-sweater.html ,  here’s the link to the finished product https://knitwords.blogspot.com/2011/01/minor-alterations-only.html   from way back or see how another go at the Woodstock thing https://knitwords.blogspot.com/2010/06/woodstock.html   painting would go…here’s the finished thing: https://knitwords.blogspot.com/2010/09/september-update.html

note to self…

Darn in every end before the laundering! I left the tails on the stockinette facing for the neckline slash opening- I was thinking the tails could be used for stitching the facing in place and I wanted to preshrink it before that. Wrong! The tails will wrap around anything and get entangled… nothing good happens here! I should have known this because it’s happened before but I thought if I told you, maybe I’d remember for next time. Anyway, I sorted it out and it's good.

So happy with how this turned out! The fit is perfect. I know I made out like this was an old-school drop shoulder but I did say with modifications!

Maybe I should clarify what I mean by old-school drop shoulder - that shapeless rectangle with 4 inch ease! Here’s what I did. Instead of that big rectangle with the neckline cut out, I sloped the side seam line to make it slightly wider at the hemline which I wanted to be mid thigh; the width at bust is bust measurement, no extra; sloped the shoulder line by 5 cm; and added a little 5 cm triangle to the top of the sleeve. It fits nicely at the bust, without that extra bulk at the underarm, the sleeve is just right, not too oversized and I love it!

The Back is still stark white though...

not the ‘c’ word…

That’s crochet, in case you were wondering! I'm crochet-impaired but I’ve got plenty of crochet-look trims, totally done on the machine, at my fingertips so, for me, a trim done on the machine is what I’m looking for. 

By my definition, a trim/edging, here, is to finish off the open stitches, make sure it doesn’t roll back or up  when you don’t want it to and for it to look good!

On the sleeve/ cuff edge, I chose one of my all-time favs, ‘XOXO, #33’ from my booklet,  ‘Band Practise’. It uses every-other-needle manual tuck, with  an RTR (remove, turn, rehang) to make a wider than stockinette band that doesn’t restrict the width of the cuff - I usually end up pushing up my sleeves to elbow-length and the extra width allows for that here.

For the bottom hems, I went with that new-ish one, #154, 'Me-Cozy Variation' that I put on the pink one-row-tuck hoodie https://knitwords.blogspot.com/2023/05/pinkie.html 

I had almost forgot about it! ;)

My seaming, uses my Franky seaming method https://knitwords.blogspot.com/2021/04/deja-vu.html

picture-perfect…

I’ve just been picking away at this, nothing too strenuous, a little bit here, a little bit there and remembering to switch out my sponge bars each time I start a new piece. Got the Front done and both sleeves, attached them as I went so the four basic pieces are knitted and together. Now, it is glaringly obvious, the back is white-white and the rest of the pieces are winter white. Sigh! 

So I can only wear it at night or a dull, cloudy day! But I sort of knew that was going to happen. In the original swatches, looking closely, in a certain light, I could see patchy spots. For the back, I used the two cones that were different dye lots, same as I used for the swatching. Then on the front, I used the two smaller cones that had the same dye lot. It was distinctly yellowish compared to the back. I made both sleeves in the same as the front figuring that I wouldn’t be looking at the back when it was on me so who cares ;). The pockets, which I plan to sew on with the sewing machine, like patch pockets, are done same as the front and I managed to get the hood out of that same dye lot…

I’m down to the trims...we’ll see what happens…

I’m not gloating, but would you look at that hood? Shortrowing in lace 4 times and not a stitch out of place!