now it's a bread bag...

I made a few more bags, using up leftovers and found a new use! I make gluten-free bread for my son and sometimes he comes to get it before it's totally cool and I never seem to have a clean paper bag large enough! Here's my revised pattern - hope you use it whether you're a beginner or not! I'm using it to get back into the practise of knitting! 

Shopping Bag - Japanese Machine Version  by Mary  Anne Oger

4,5mm flat bed machine, no ribber required

Yeoman Yarns Cannele, mercerized cotton.

Gauge, not really important, but T7, mesh, 28 sts and 40 row to10 cm. Finished weight, 185g, finished flat size, 40 cm wide X 38 cm high.

Notes: Bag is knit from top of one side to bottom and back up other side with handles attached at each top side as you go. Then side edge is rehung to make neat sides. Knit side is used as right side throughout. Every other needle birdseye tuck is single bed knit. Stitch pattern used is the 1X1 birdseye pattern double width. This means that with every other needle in work, the tuck is alternating every other needle on every other row and it is not necessary to worry about proper needle selection.

Punchcard machines, make card as shown. Electronics, program as shown. Set to tuck.

HANDLES: 8-0-8 ns. Cast on WY and ravel cord. Leaving long tails at each end of MC, knit stockinette, T5, K160R. WY, K16R. MC, K160R. Remove on WY.

BAG: 60-0-61 ns. Cast on WY and ravel cord. MC, T6, K10R. (If desired, transfer to EON for Picot - Transfer 2nd and every other stitch to next left needle for picot, empty ns in WP). T9, K1R. T6, K10R. RC021. Pick up sts from first row of MC to make hem. Remove WY. Take one end of handle, purl side facing, hang starting on 30th needle from end, toward centre. Repeat at other side with other end of same strap.T7, K10R. 

MESH: Transfer to EON, empty ns out of work. Hang weights for tuck knitting. Set up stitch pattern and use next row to read/select if necessary. T4, K1R (Note, this tighter row makes a smaller hole, going into the tuck on every other needle!). RC000. Program for tuck, T7, K116R.     BOTTOM OF BAG: Bring all ns to work. RC000. T6, K20R. T9, K1R. T6, K20R. SECOND MESH SIDE: Transfer to EON, empty ns out of work. T4, K1R, using this row to program. Set to tuck. T7, K116R. Bring all ns to work. T4, K1R. 

SECOND TOP HEM: RC000. T6, K10R, ending at right. This next row is a marker row for the top hem. T10, K1R. T6, K10R. (If desired make picot row as above.) T9, K1R. T6, K10R. Hang sinker loops of marked row. Take the other handle, knit side facing, hang from 30th needle  from each end as first side. Manually knit very loose row and chain off.

Side Panels. 75-0-75 ns. Wrong side facing, pick up side of bag, hanging half

outside edge stitch, from bottom of stockinette top on each end with centre fold line of bottom at 0. Bring needles out and close latches.  CAR, MC, T8, K1R. T6, K11R, ending CAR. Take MC out of feeder - do not cut. Put right side in hold. Knit waste yarn on left side, about 1 inch. Drop from ns. Place carriage back at right, rethread MC. Cancel hold. K1R to return ns to work. Rip out last row, leaving sts in hooks of ns in B position. Fold left side over to correspond and hang these sts on top of right side. Manually knit very loose row and chain off.

Sew the handles up on to top edge of band. Darn in ends. Press well.

Have fun and make several! 

shopping bag retrospective…

I’m here and I’ve committed myself to making one of those ‘Take an Old Bag Shopping’  thingys, for a hostess gift - the pattern was in Knitwords No 44, back in 2007. https://knitwords.blogspot.com/2009/02/what-every-brother-knitter-should-know.html

A Passap knitter had sent me a bag and the pattern, done on a  Passap machine and you know, I can be honest now, enough time has passed! When it first came in, I remember thinking, what the heck? Who wants to make a shopping bag? They give you plastic bags at the grocery store!  Was I worried about my carbon footprint? Get a life! Remember, it was almost 15 years ago and did I care? Honestly, not really! But seriously, the reality was, I had 48 pages of magazine to fill with knitting stuff! I couldn’t afford to go around being snooty.

Anyway, I did end up translating and writing the pattern for Japanese machines and, back in the day, I made that bag so many times, virtually every one I knew got at least one, probably made it at least twenty times. It is a great hostess gift! But, here I am today, it’s been a while and I’ve read my notes and all the old blogposts about it, gearing myself up for this - there’s not a lot of time for dillydallying- I need to have it ready to go within five days. 

Pulled out my old ‘cheat sheet’ pattern - still have my original bag, looked it over, familiarizing myself with the various details. Went to my machine (Silver electronic standard gauge) and put in a new sponge bar - haven’t knit anything since the end of April and even my aging brain remembers to do this -  https://knitwords.blogspot.com/2022/03/the-elephant-in-room.html

Loaded in the stitch pattern and did some ‘air knitting’ 

to check the pattern and felt I was ready to jump in. 

Now, at the top of my cheat sheet, it says, in block caps, under Handles, LEAVE LONG TAILS…did I do that? No, of course not. The long tails are for sewing up the edges of the handles onto the top hem. Next part is the top hem of the first side - the original pattern calls for a picot hem - did I do that? Hell, no! For some reason that isn’t on my cheat sheet! This is a freakin’ shopping bag! Who needs a picot hem? This will be a ‘boy bag’! Kept going, got ‘er done and it was only when I was attempting to sew up the handles, I noticed the second one was botched - put on backwards! Ah, no one will ever notice! It's a freakin' shopping bag!

Oh my, even with the mistakes, this was fun! Much better than watching the news!

done and dusted...

 every thing's finished up! Looks good to me!

prewash

final!

second chance…

Yay! Completed the sleeve, no problem, at least 5gs left! So happy, I jumped right in to get that neckband done! My memory is not quite what it used to be but even though I think I know what I’m doing, it has been a few weeks since I made all those swatches. I did what I thought was going to work with the English rib happening on the rib bed and, almost holding my breath, hung the neckline. I’ll admit, even though I’m usually telling you to get rid of the waste yarn once you’ve got every thing hung, I left it on the neckline, just in case! Ha! Didn’t need it! Looks good! Can hardly wait to get this all finished up, and washed and dried, to show you!

In case you're really following along (I can only hope), here's what I did:

1. 75-0-75 ns. Swing P5. Arrange for 1X1 rib. Manual wrap cast on.

2. RC000.T5/5, K1R. Hang comb and weights. Bring ns out to make sure that all is well.

3. T4/4. K8R. T7/7, K1R (fold row). T4/4. K8R.

4. CAR. Set for English rib, tuck on RB. K2R.

5. Swung English rib: Rack to P7, K2R, rack to P5, K2R for 8 rows. You should be back at P5.

6. On MB, bring empty ns to work. Transfer all to MB.

7. Hang neck edge sts from WY with RIGHT side facing you. There will be 2 sets of sts on needles.

8. Stockinette, garment tension, K3R. Remove on WY. Join other shoulder and seam neckband. Backstitch the 3 rows of plain knitting to front of garment, stitching through open loops of last row of main yarn.

9. Fold cast-on edge to inside and handstitch with running stitch, loosely to last row of 1X1 above racking.

r.o.y.a...

That’s running-out-of-yarn-anxiety! 

Just to recap, I had a small cone of 70g and an almost full cone, 490g, both ‘surf’ but turns out they’re different dye lots! They look the same on the cone but we’ve all been there - that line when you add the next one in tells the tale! What I’m doing to disguise it is using the small cone for the ribbed bands - 10 rows of 1X1 on the body, just enough to hem it and hold it down, and, 30 rows of 2X2(2X1) industrial rib for the cuff, giving it a little more oomph and body for a man-cuff -  the line created by the variance in the stitches between the rib and the 1RT will be enough to hide the dye lot differences. 

Back is done, it weighs 160g; Front, 158g. First sleeve done and there’s 74g left on the larger cone. Do the math and the first sleeve took 74g…oh, man that’s gonna be close! Normally, after the back and front, I’d join one shoulder and do the neckband especially after all those practises but I don’t dare, even though I’m using a different yarn for the neckband…gotta make sure to get the second sleeve before putting it all together, just in case!

revision…

After the second neckband swatch, added to the opposite side of the tension swatch, I noticed there was something weird happening after the RTR (remove, turn, rehang).  Maybe it wasn’t a mistake - possibly it just showed up more in the cotton because there’s better stitch definition than the wool used in the NBT sample. And then I thought, what the heck! Why am I doing that RTR? 

Actually it’s because for this neckband technique to work properly, you need to have the wrong side of the neckband facing you when the right side of the neckline is hung on top. But I meant, why? If I switch the tucks of the English rib to the bottom bed, making the side facing the wrong side, there won’t be any need for that RTR! Why didn’t I think of that before? 

After the third swatch which didn’t really work - I forgot that for the swung English rib to form properly you needed to rack after the tucks and, when that was sorted, on the 5th neckband swatch I decided maybe it would be nice to double under the 1X1 rib because, in the cannele cotton, which is slightly thinner than the Bonita cotton, the 1X1 rib cast-on was looking a bit wimpy…would the wash and dry sort that out? 

Omigosh! And I thought making a pullover would be quick and easy! 

shades of...

Back to the Suva situation, I had already made a couple of swatches, with the ‘surf’ a pale blue/gray and cream combination-it’s hard to tell what colour is predominant and it seems to change with the lighting. In my mind I wanted to use a contrast colour for the neckband at least - couple of reasons - manfriend has a very harsh beard/stubble, even though he shaves daily - it’s almost like a wire brush and I’ve noticed if he has a close-fitting neckline and a softer fabric, it gets abraded and brushed-looking so I hoped using a mercerized cotton, like Bonita or Cannele would make a harder-wearing neckband than the Suva which is quite soft. 

In my first swatch, I used light blue on one side and did the contrast rows in the ivory/cream shade.  After the wash and dry, decided I didn’t like the light blue - too different - so went with the ivory/cream/ecru colour for the swatch of the neckband. 

That seemed to have a peachy tint next to the Suva! And, of course, there’s that ROYA (running out of yarn anxiety) - my Pebbles used only 350g of the Suva but I’m doing this on T8 which will take more yarn so it’s always good to have a plan B!

BTW, the T9 swatch (pebbles), after wash and dry was 25 sts and 42 rows. This one, at T8, same pattern, is 28 sts and 54 rows - wow! That one number tighter makes a big difference!

I picked one of those ‘fancy ribs’ neckband from NBT, the one with the swung English rib…