There was a knitalong supposed to be happening for my design, ‘Stormy Weather’ from Knit’nStyle #189 last December– not sure what happened, but I got tired of waiting and finally went ahead and made mine- I think spring is finally here and I want to be able to wear it! Here are my extra notes and photos for anyone interested.
actually made new swatches because I wasn’t positive with the original ones. I
made one at T4.5 - it measured 22 sts and 31 rows to 10 cm. This one I had
trouble knitting – needed lots of weight and still had a few tucks happening
where there was an extra large slub in the yarn. The second one at T5 went much
smoother and felt better – got 21 sts and 30 rows – not a big deal of
difference between the two but I know from experience that if you’re having
trouble knitting the swatch it’s going to be magnified in the garment.
You’ll still need a fair bit of weights – the 3 hanger combs at the cast-on , with 2 small ribber weights and then claw
weights that I’m moving up at the edges. Also used yarn spray – made a big
figure out what size you want – please pay attention to the hint of using the
next size up in width especially – this yarn has a fair weight to it because of
the rayon and will lengthen considerably from what it looks on the machine –
even after I got my Back off the machine, I went yikes, it looks too short and
wide, but a few minutes of relaxing made a difference. Also, check the length
in the schematic – I did mean this to be just above crotch-length. KnitnStyle
called it a tunic, but I didn’t do it to be a tunic (I think of a tunic as
completely covering your butt and well
below the crotch) – and the model was 6’2” so don’t rely on the photo for what
you want it to look like on you – measure!!! or better yet put on a garment
that you like the fit and length and compare…same thing with the sleeve – you
can’t really tell in the photo, but they pushed up the sleeves in some of the
photos so this may lead you to think
they will be too short – I don’t think so…BTW, the best way to measure
for the sleeve – this is a drop shoulder – after you’ve joined the shoulder
seams, put it on and then you will be able to see how far down the shoulder
comes and get a much more accurate sleeve length measurement.
– please read my article in KnS – I am
using the same colourway as the sample garment in the magazine – the denim. I
got another 10 balls because I had about 5 leftover from the original - making
the 4th size (finished bust, 44 in, same number of sts for length as in the
pattern) – I am finished knitting the pieces and I have a full ball and two
small partials left.
My wool-winder is actually a cone winder, so I wind it
onto a cone and the end you’re knitting from comes off the outside of the ball
– this is great because you can see the colour as it’s coming and it’s easier
to judge how much there is of that colour before it changes. If you only have a
winder that gives you a tail that feeds out of the centre, I would still try to
use it from the outside for the above reason. Also, if using yarn spray, it
works best from the outside of the cone…)
Back - after
you hang the cast-on side for the second half, remember to reverse your needles
– flip it, the neckline will be at the
opposite end. Leave the waste yarn in – I
found it really helpful to have it there when you are watching your second set
of colours/stripes – it’s easier to see the centre and kind of count from there
to keep track if your stripes are working out – don’t be afraid to throw in
another couple of rows from a separate ball if you need, especially on the
larger sizes. If you have the denim colour way, I just watched the light blue
stripes and tried to make them the same on each half…you only have to do this
on the back and fronts so it looks okay over the shoulder and you want the side
seams to look sort of matched and where you begin knitting the sleeves down –
the sleeves and hood can be all dark if you want (or if it’s all there is left)
– you’ll have mostly dark shades left as there is much less of the light blue
shade per ball…
Front – I decided
that I’d like to have a full front opening zipper, so I did not rehang the
second side, just knit it in reverse of the first front and had waste yarn on
both front edges. I was going to knit an outside facing, vertically, like half
the placket from the original design for each side, without the vee bottom, but
I figured that was too much work!! - also, running out of yarn here –
the front edges of my ‘In the Tweeds’ from Serial Stuff mid gauge will work
perfectly – it is a zip front sideways knit jacket and I can use the extra ball
of yarn for some patch pockets, à la Hoods Up!
Front Edges. Take number of sts and reduce by 10%. Bring n’s to D.
Using MC, double stranded, loosely chain on, behind latches. With purl side
facing, hang stitches from WY gathering evenly across row. Close latches and
pull through chain. Manually knit loose row and chain cast off. Repeat for other side.
Zipper. Finish assembly of garment, except for zipper. Wash and dry garment
to pre-shrink before zipper application. In my experience, metal teeth zippers will lay flat and not buckle or
ripple as much as plastic coil zippers do with subsequent washings.
Measure for zipper after laundering.
Although zippers can be shortened (see below), I prefer to get a slightly short
zipper and set it up from the bottom as needed.
can be shortened by cutting ‘teeth’ off the zipper tape at each side,
individually with a razor blade knife. Metal zipper teeth can be removed with
needle nosed pliers.
Hand stitch at
top of each side to create new stop for zipper, after installation.
Sewing by hand. I find sewing the zipper in by hand gives a
better-looking finish and causes
with subsequent washings. It is easier to achieve a hidden stitch by hand than
sewing with machine. Pin zipper to inside of band and adjust if necessary.
Position teeth just even with finished edge. Try garment on and make sure
zipper is correct length, not pulling up or stretching garment front. Also
check for any matching points on garment, i.e. pocket placement and top and
bottom of zipper. Do not try to get the teeth too close to the knit as the
zipper will snag the fibres. Use thread to match zipper tape and stab stitch
front edge, close to zipper teeth, but far enough away so zipper head does not
catch thread - do not take long stitches as the thread could be snagged and
pulled out or broken in use. Using a whip stitch, catch outside edge of zipper
tape and tack to inside of garment. The bottom edges of the zipper tape are
extremely hard to hand sew through. Use the sewing machine and thread to match
garment on top and stitch vertically across bottom of zipper tape to secure,
following line of knit stitches from top side to hide stitching.
Having said all that, practice what you preach, you say?
Gosh, I’m fresh off a sewing machine zipper installation which took at least 5
minutes of sewing as opposed to maybe an hour of hand stitching – guess what I
did? Looks good to me!! I even used the sewing machine for the pockets!