Got a
few notes for you here:
1. Increasing
in rib with an uneven needle arrangement like this – what to do:
l l . l
l l . l l l . l l l . l l
. . l .
. . l . . . l . . . l . . .
|
1st step - 2 edge sts |
First,
when setting up your needle arrangement, add an extra needle at the right side
and select from the centre so that you have the same thing at each edge. For
the sleeve, which will be increased, I had my edges with two stitches on the
main bed at the ends and these remained constant throughout. Meaning that the
two edge stitches were moved out one space, bringing a new needle to work on
the
|
2nd step - 3 sts on MB |
MB and then the heel stitch of the second stitch from the edge was hung on
the now empty third needle from edge to complete the increase – don’t worry
about the rib needle until there are three needles past (which means six
needles on main bed) and then transfer that main bed stitch down, leaving an
empty needle, to continue the existing needle arrangement.
|
3rd step - 6 sts on MB |
|
4th - transfer st to RB |
In other words, the rib stitch isn’t brought
to work until there are six needles in work at the edge on the main bed.
2. Shortrowing
for sleeve cap: on the row before it is to be ‘held’ or shortrowed, transfer
the rib stitch to the empty main bed needle and then put it in hold on the next
row as needed. This way you won’t be having held stitches on both beds and when
it is time to cast them off, they are already up on the main bed. Oh yeah, that
tuck rib stitch, turn it into a real stitch before transferring it, either by
manually knitting it through the tuck, or by bring the needle up (fully out, like D/E but no hold buttons on) on
the rib bed on the row before which will cancel the tuck and make it knit.
3. Seaming
a purl side fabric on the machine: this seam needs to be flat to open out and
look neat. Hang first side, purl side facing you, hanging only half the outside
edge stitch. Hang the second side, putting purl sides together – looking at the
knit side now, still hanging only half of the edge stitch – this one is a
little tougher but its worth the effort to take your time and of course, you’re
matching the increases (or yarn marks, if you remembered them – I didn’t put
them because I knew I would be able to see that new rib stitch and use it as
the match point). After it is all hung and looking good, bring the needles out,
leaving the work behind the latches and using one strand of the yarn ( I used
the darker one to blend in better), by hand, manually knit a fairly loose row
and chain it off. This allows each side to open out flat and make a really nice
seam, looking good on both knit side and purl side so the turned back cuff is very neat too. Hope you agree!
More on
decreasing and a new pocket technique later!
2 comments:
Excellent information and photos. Info is clear and easy for any Machine Knitter to follow along!
Hi Mary Anne
Thank you so much for this very clear and informative post, it will hopefully help those who are frightened of doing ribber work!!
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